Borrowdale from Keswick

Published 14 September 2026

Borrowdale is the valley south of Derwentwater: nine miles long, with nine National Trust car parks along it. After the lake the ground pinches above Grange Bridge, between Kings How and Castle Crag — the Jaws of Borrowdale, a name the Trust says early visitors coined. Atlantic oakwood makes the pinch feel enclosed. Then the fields open around Rosthwaite, Seatoller and Seathwaite. “The thicker the walls, the older they are,” the Trust notes; Herdwick flocks are part of the Lake District World Heritage cultural landscape.

The wider menu from town is in our day trips.

South of the lake

Castle Crag is, in the Trust’s wording, one of the pointed jagged teeth in the jaws. The summit is 290 metres, looking north over Derwent Water to Skiddaw and south to Great End, Glaramara and the Scafell massif. The Trust attributes to Wainwright “the loveliest square mile in Lakeland”. Seathwaite, on a fork off the B5289, is what the Trust calls the wettest inhabited place in England — high-fell days start there; they are not this article. Honister Pass sits at 350 metres, nine miles from Keswick on the Trust’s parking page; check the road in cold weather.

On 22 May 2024 the National Trust and Natural England declared Borrowdale Rainforest a King’s Series National Nature Reserve, starting at 721 hectares. The woods stay open; stay on the paths.

The 78 from Keswick

Stagecoach’s 78 is The Borrowdale Bus. In the summer 2026 Lakes Connection season — 23 March to 1 November 2026 — it runs daily, including public holidays, open top, from Keswick Bus Station Stand 3 to Seatoller.

No booking. Buy on the Stagecoach app, or on the bus by card or cash. Single journeys are capped at £3 under the DfT scheme for as long as Stagecoach is participating. The North West Explorer is £12.50 for an adult day ticket — not the stale “from £12” some listings still print. Child and concession day tickets are £9; a group of up to five is £34. English National Concessionary pass holders travel free 09:30–23:00 Monday–Friday and all day at weekends and public holidays.

The printed summer sheet from Stand 3 starts at 0810, then 0910 and 0940, roughly every half hour, last bus 1930, arriving Seatoller 1958. First 0810 reaches Grange Bridge at 0827 and Seatoller at 0838. Back from Seatoller first 0840, last 2000, into Keswick at 2028. The Lake District National Park puts a 78 stop at the Bowder Stone walk. Check the app. Stagecoach’s Keswick page puts Borrowdale at 15 minutes by 78 and the valley at 18.

From 2 November 2026 check stagecoachbus.com and the app. The Trust’s Castle Crag trail still says the 78 runs all year; that is their wording, not a winter timetable. The service is expected to continue at a reduced frequency; believe the operator, not last year’s hourly sheet.

A combined Derwentwater Bus & Boat ticket is adult £17.90, child £11.90, family £35.40: Explorer-zone bus plus hop-on hop-off on Keswick Launch. The 77A Honister Rambler is the extra, not the spine. Some 77C weekend and public-holiday journeys ran only 2 May–31 August 2026 — that window has ended. Read the current 77/77A PDF and the app.

Grange and the Jaws

Get off at Grange Bridge. The hamlet sits at the gateway the Trust describes: above the bridge the valley constricts between Kings How and Castle Crag. Stagecoach suggests afternoon tea here. There are tea rooms in the hamlet — check the door.

Keswick Launch’s Lodore jetty is listed as a stop for Lodore Falls, the Chinese Bridge, Borrowdale, Grange and Seatoller. How the boats work, and how to reach the falls, is in our launch guide and Lodore Falls.

The Bowder Stone

The National Trust, which owns the land, calls it a large andesite lava boulder that fell 200 metres from the Bowder Crag on Kings How between 13,500 and 10,000 years ago. Georgians came for what the Trust calls pleasurable terror; there is a ladder.

The national park’s Miles Without Stiles page tells a glacial-erratic story. Prefer the landowner for how the stone got there. Use the Park for the walk: Miles Without Stiles 35, grade “for some”, about half an hour, 0.54 km. The current access note is on the Bowderstone Miles Without Stiles page.

From the pay-and-display (CA12 5XA) a steep, short track past an old quarry has steep steps. The step-free line: back down the access track to the road (about 1 in 5), left 40 metres on the roadside, then the surfaced verge onto the main path. Several 1:8 sections run up to 90 metres. Mobility scooters: class 2 or 3 only. The stone is free; you pay to park unless you are a Trust member. Three disabled spaces sit at the bottom of the steps beside the 78 stop.

Rosthwaite

The Trust calls Rosthwaite the capital of Borrowdale. Packhorse bridleways run to Castle Crag and to Watendlath. The 78 stop is Rosthwaite General Store. The Trust car park is on the right in the village, 6½ miles south of Keswick. Toilets here are often closed in winter — read the board.

Flock-In at Yew Tree Farm is open early February to November, six days, 10am–5pm; the closed day is not published, so check. The Trust’s Castle Crag trail names a separate Flock Inn café at Nook Farm — not the same kitchen. The Royal Oak Hotel is open; check royaloakhotel.co.uk. Do not plan lunch at the Scafell Hotel.

Seatoller, Seathwaite and the pass

Seatoller is the 78 terminus. The Trust’s biggest Borrowdale car park is here, eight miles south of Keswick on the parking page, with toilets and the bus turnaround. Toilets are often closed in winter. The same organisation’s Castle Crag trail still says follow the Borrowdale Road for 5 miles to Seatoller; use the eight-mile parking figure.

Seathwaite is a mile on. The Trust’s test is simple: could a fire engine get past? Midsummer, bank holidays and Remembrance Sunday are named as especially busy. Park at Seatoller or Honister, or take the 78.

Honister Slate Mine — England’s last working slate mine, operator not the Trust — is open seven days, 8:30am–5:00pm. Mine parking is free for the first hour, then £5 per vehicle per day. That is not the Trust’s Honister Pass car park. Starting prices on honister.com move: Mine Tours from £25.

A walk to pair with the bus: Castle Crag from Seatoller

The National Trust’s Castle Crag from Seatoller trail is the pairing. Start at Seatoller NT car park, CA12 5XN — or join from Rosthwaite at the packhorse bridge. Five miles (8 km), three hours to four hours 15 minutes, moderate. The Trust says it is not suitable for wheelchairs: steep climbs, uneven paths. Dogs welcome, on leads around livestock.

Terrain is well-established bridleways and public footpaths, rough or pitched stone on the steep bits. The final ascent zig-zags across loose spoil from the nineteenth-century quarry. Coming down there is one very short rocky scramble beside the river with a chain fixed to the rock. After the descent a signpost reads “Rosthwaite 1¾ miles”.

If Castle Crag is more than the day wants, ride the 78 to the Bowder Stone stop, do Miles Without Stiles 35, and pick up the bus again at Grange. The Trust also names a low-level River Derwent path between Rosthwaite and Grange; they do not publish a distance or time for it. Do not treat Scafell Pike as the walk that pairs with this bus.

If you take the car

Nine Trust parks, one tariff: £7 up to 2 hours, £8 up to 4 hours, £9.50 all day. Members scan to park free. Rural signal is poor — cash, and set up JustPark before you leave. No overnight parking. Do not trust satnav postcodes. None of this is a 24-hour stay.

Great Wood, CA12 5UP, NY272213 — 1.8 miles from Keswick on the B5289. Skip the first Trust entrance on the left; continue about 100 metres.

Kettlewell, CA12 5UN, NY266195 — 3 miles, lakeshore, fills fast, height barrier 195 cm.

Ashness Bridge, CA12 5UN, NY269196 — about 15 spaces; steep narrow road with passing places.

Surprise View, CA12 5UU, NY268189 — 3.5 miles; about 15 spaces; the upper area is about 10 metres from the viewpoint, surface improved for wheelchair access.

Watendlath, CA12 5UW, NY275163 — about 45 spaces, 263 metres; two miles beyond Surprise View. Caffle House tea-room is not National Trust — call ahead.

Bowder Stone, CA12 5XA, NY253168 — about 60 spaces; 5 miles from Keswick; one mile past Grange bridge, left.

Rosthwaite, CA12 5XB, NY257148 — 6½ miles south, right-hand side in the village.

Seatoller, CA12 5XN, NY246137 — the biggest park, eight miles south.

Honister Pass, CA12 5XN, NY225135 — 350 metres; nine miles from Keswick.

Ashness, Surprise View and Watendlath are the side road. Town parking for the 78 is in our parking guide.

When the valley is busy, wet or out of season

Stick to paths; the Countryside Code is the rule. Red squirrels are in the oakwoods; vendace are in Derwent Water.

The enhanced 78 in this timetable runs through 1 November 2026. After that, check Stagecoach. Keswick Launch’s winter service is not daily: 9 November 2026 to 19 March 2027, selected dates; closed in December and January.

Christmas lights in Keswick are Wednesday 18 November 2026, town centre — organiser Keswick Town Council; confirm that page. Theatre by the Lake has The Farmer’s Wife from Friday 18 September to Saturday 10 October 2026, and A Christmas Carol from Friday 13 November 2026 to Sunday 3 January 2027 — check theatrebythelake.com. Ghost Walks are listed for 5 and 8 October in the Market Square via keswick.org; confirm with the organiser.

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